EBC or Everest Base Camp Trek

Everest Base Camp trek or the EBC trek was in my bucket list from last past 3-4 years. So finally somehow everything got pulled & we booked EBC trek for April 2019 in Sep 2018. I Was very happy that am going to see the tallest mountain on earth in real & close.

The Famous Everest Base Camp (EBC)

Day 1 Bangalore to New Delhi

After noon flew from Bangalore to Delhi & had a nice dinner at Karim’s, Near Jama masjid, New Delhi.

 Day 2 New Delhi to Kathmandu

Had an early morning flight from New Delhi to Kathmandu. Due to cloudy weather we couldn’t get much of mountain view. Our travel agent had sent a guy to pick us, we stayed in Hotel Marriot at Thamel street. Met our guide, travel co coordinator, visited Durbar square & Kumari ghar, did some last minute shopping for trek & got our INR (Indian Rupees) changed to NPR (Nepal rupees).

Kumari - living goddess of Nepal

Day 3 Kathmandu to Lukla (2843 meters) (via Ramechap airport) to Phakding (2660 mts) – (Lukla to Phakding - 6kms / 6hours)

From this year they had cancelled flights from Kathmandu to Lukla due to maintence. We had to travel 5 hours on road to Ramechap & fly to Lukla from there. At Ramechap airport, 1^st time I felt this EBC trek is too commercialised & crowed. This was our life’s most dangerous flight travel.

 All three brothers in 1 single flight OMG. Somehow we landed safely at worlds dangerous LUKLA airport situated at a height of 2843 meters & with a tiny runway of 500+ meters only. 

There we met our porters & soon after we collected our baggage, everyone started to run towards runway shouting ‘A plane crashed!!!!!!!!!’

OMG it’s the plane we just got down. While returning back to Ramechap it had slipped from runway & crashed to a helicopter. Luckily there was no passengers on plane. Still 3 victim due to accident.

What a terrible way to start our life time trek?!!!

Started our trek from Lukla airport, our 4 porters walked carrying our luggage at fast pace. We had our 1^st ginger tea in hotel sunrise on way to Lukla market. The trail was easy flat & gradual incline. We came across few mani stones & prayer bells tied with flags. We had a lunch at a tea house. Soon after the clock struck 2 pm the rain started. we Kept our self dry using ponchos. Reached our guest house by 3pm. Had a hot tea & then dinner at 6pm. By 6.30 pm  we all were asleep.

The actual EBC trek start point from Lukla

Day 4 Phakding (2660m) to Namche Bazaar (3440m) - 13 kms, 7 hours

Our guide had warned us yesterday itself saying that this day was the toughest of EBC trek. We crossed 5-6 hanging bridge & last one is Hillary Suspension Bridge. It's the biggest one which we usually see in EBC clips & movies. On way at MANJO we have to take our trek permit inside Sagarmatha national park office.

All our permits were taken care by our guide. On the way of EBC trail these permits are checked at many points.

Until noon the trail was good. After lunch the trail was hectic & demanding. We reached the famous Namche bazaar in evening. We stayed in hotel Tibet. Luckily we got free charging points. Everyone was tired & slept after early dinner.

The famous Hillary Suspension bridge on way to Namche

Day 5 Acclimatization day at Namche bazaar

It’s the most famous place attached with EBC trek/trail. World’s Highest bazaar (market) place. Namche is really cool & colourful. 

Morning woke up lately & after breakfast our guide took us to a Sagarmatha national park museum, which is just above the hill behind Namche. Tenzing Norgay memorial is also on this hill. From behind the Tenzing statue, we had our first look of  Mount Everest with bare eyes.

 Had few photo sessions then we climbed a nearby small hill for accalmataization. After lunch we went out for shopping in Namche bazaar. The things we missed to carry or shop were bought here. There is Irish Pub, which is world’s highest Irish pub. Many of pubs offer to show free documentary on Everest.

Day 6 Namche bazaar (3440m) to Tengboche (3870m) – 11kms, 7 hrs

After walking 15 minutes from Namche city a zig zag, slightly up n down trail is awesomely mesmerizing. 

This trial lasted for 2 hours & we could had a very near/clear view of mount Everest. From here we can have Mount Everest view continuously throughout the EBC trail. Along with Everest one can see Lhotse, Nuptse & Ama Dabla too. After half way there was inclination in trail & the route was tiresome & demanding. The steep climbing of 2.5 to 3 hrs took us to Tengboche. We had a long hailstorm rain at end of trail. The world famous Tengboche monastery welcomed all of us at the entrance. 

The panoramic view of mountains was awesome. This is the most beautiful camp & place one can experience during the whole Ebc trail. We all visited monastery.

Day 7 Tengboche (3870m) to Dingboche (4530m) – 10.8 kms, 7 hrs

There was a major height gain in this day. The trail felt too long & tiresome. Luckily we could sight a Himalayan musk deer on way.

It looks we were getting too close to mount Ama Dablam. We were supposed to stay at Periche but team decided & pushed to a bit higher altitude. On way saw many small stupas. we walked in an open field trail, we could see many yak grazing in meadows, crossed the Doodh kosi river & reached Dingboche.

Day 8 Dingboche (4530m) to Lobuche (4940m) –8.4 kms, 6.5 hours

We made a mistake this day, we were supposed to take a day off here n we didn’t. we started towards Lobuche & after 2 hours open field trail reached Tukla. This trail was best for photography. 

After having a tea, we started climbing a very steep pass ‘Tukla pass’ which almost took 60-90 mins to climb. At the end of Tukla pass, we can find the memorials of great mountaineers (Rob hall, scot fisher, etc.) who passed away in mountains. 

Scott fisher memorial

The place is filled with prayer flags. After that there was a gradual steep trail. We could have had clear n close view of Nuptse during whole after noon trail. after 2 hours walk we reached Lobuche.

Day 9 Lobuche (4940m) to Gorakshep (5130m) – 4.3 kms / 3 hours

This was the real D day of EBC trek. Our guide had repeatedly told & had mentally prepared us for this day's 12kms / 9 hours trek. we started from lobuche & in between the trail was filled with fresh snow & thin ice sheets. 

The steep lobuche pass was tiresome & after passing we could see the first view of EBC with scattered yellow tents. The view got more interesting & thrilling. We could also see the khumbu ice glaciers. After an up n down trail we reached the Gorakshep, first time in life we had scaled 5000+ meters.

The worlds highest Shivaji Maharaj monument at Gorakshep

Gorakshep (5130m) to Everest base camp (5340m) to Gorakshep (5130m) – 7.5 Kms / 6 hours

Being the last camp of EBC trail we dumped our luggages in a hotel & started towards our dream destination. Finally after 3 hours walk I could see the yellow tents which were 200-300 mts away. Reached EBC (5340Mts) & took some pics near the prayer flags & EBC marked Rocks. 

We further walked towards Indian Everest climber’s area & could meet our Indian army soldiers who were preparing for summit. they offered us hot tea &biscuits. I stayed a bit longer standing in the snow shower, watching the shining ice glaciers in & around EBC tents, which was my life’s most exciting moment. Picked few stones from EBC. Saw towards the Everest & the irony is no one can see Everest tip from EBC. Since it was getting late we had to get back to Gorakshep camp.

We 3 brothers

Day 10 Gorakshep (5130m) to Kala patthar (5555 m) – 2.5 kms / 2 hrs

If one need to have a proper & close view of Everest, they need to climb Kala patthar. We started at 4 am & walked towards kala patthar in dark. By the time day light broke we had reached 60% of trail & I could get the best possible nearest view of the mount Everest. 

The nearest clear view of Mt. Everest 

Though the Kala patthar is visible from trail, but the path seems never ending. It took 2-2.5 hours to reach the kala patthar & summit it. 

Kala patthar summit

The rock was very slippery due to frost & ice formed. The pleasure & joy I felt while looking towards mount Everest from Kala patthar was priceless & overwhelming.

Day 10 kala patthar (5555m) to Gorakshep (5130m) to Tukla (4600m) – 9.8 kms / 7 hrs

We got down from kala patthar in 1.5 hrs. we wanted to get back to low region as early as possible. So reached Gorakshep & started back to Tukla. The path was same trail which we climbed 1-2 days back. But the trekkers going towards the Gorakshep that day was in high nos. 

There was traffic jam like situation at many steep spots. After continuous descend we reached the Tukla.

Day 11 Tukla (4600m) to Pangboche (3930m) –10kms / 5 hrs

This is was the most easy day. The trail was normal we came to Periche, which has the only hospital of the whole EBC trail after Namche or Lukla. Passed open field trail & meadows area. Reached Pangboche.

On the way there were many cyclists attempting to cover whole EBC trail in their cycles

Day 12 Pangboche (3930m) to Khumjung (3810m) – 8.9 kms / 7 hrs

This day the trail was hard. Equal steep down & steep up. Came back to khumjung via Tengboche. We walked as fast as we could. Weather was good. We planned to reach Namche but later decided to stay in khumjung hotel where the hotel owner was a successful Everest summiteer.

Day 13 Khumjung (3810m) to Benker (2750m) –12kms / 6 hrs

The trail was descending all the day. We covered 12kms as soon as possible. Crossed many hanging bridges. Saw the Everest view for the last time during trail. The chill weather was almost nil. Reached Benker in early evening.

Day 14 Benker (2750m) to Lukla (2860m) – 9kms / 6 hrs

This was officially last trek day of EBC so we covered distance calmly enjoying our last day trek in Sagarmatha region trail, passed the Phakading & reached Lukla by afternoon. Simple but lengthy trail. We said good bye to our porters at Lukla.

Day 15 Lukla to Kathmandu

Though there was confusion of flights flying from Lukla to Ramechap due to bad weather condition at noon flight service started & somehow we all safely landed in Ramechap & reached Kathmandu at night. Had a very refreshing hot shower at Marriott hotel & an Everest strong beer...

Our EBC team

Janardhan, Shashidhar, Sanjay prabhu, Prabhakar, Abhay, Sudhakar, Ratnaja

Why Everest base camp trek? (for me)

It was 1994 when I 1^st heard about Mount Everest from my Kannada teacher Mrs. Chinmayee in class when she was teaching about world’s tallest, largest & biggest things. She also told her friend had been near to mountain & was planning to summit but unfortunately she couldn’t. I don’t know how far the second part was true. 

Later when we started visiting Himalayas I heard Everest many times in my life. We had a camp leader at ‘Padri’ of Sar pass trek conducted by YHAI in year  2015 who had done EBC. We (me & my brother shashi) were so thrilled to a chat with him. Always had an obsession on Everest & the least I could do was to go up to base camp & see Everest tip from its bottom. So I decided to do EBC trek & also kept a dead line of 2018. 

Anybody who has done 3-4 Himalayan treks will definitely have the dream of EBC. It’s like a bench mark of Himalayan trek.  People from whole world comes there. Then I started my search for economic way to full fill EBC dream. I had searched Nepal youth hostel thinking they may conduct EBC. I used to tell my friends of YHAI conduct Ebc trek then definitely I’ll be in its 1^st batch.

 Then the movie Everest was released. My obsession become more intense. I started to spend more time on searching everything on Everest. The deaths on Everest, dead bodies on Everest, balcony, south route from Nepal, north route from china, Hillary step, khumbu glacier, Namchebazaar, Lukla, 1996’s biggest mishap of Everest expedition, etc. these were repeated heard & browsed at least once in fortnight by me. The stories of George Mallory, Rob hall, Scott fisher, etc. were read & documentaries were watched. The books 'Hero of Everest' by Tenzing & 'Into thin air' by Jon krucker, made the Everest as in separable thought of my life. Totally I was deeply & madly in love with Mount Everest.

Organizing company & selection

One of our friend suggested an agency in Kathmandu 'Well Nepal Travels' after many rounds of discussion with its owner Ramesh, EBC trek of 15days was settled for INR 60,000/- (Kathmandu to Kathmandu). After few days of my brother friend who had completed EBC in 2018 was added to Wats app group to share experience & he recommended to visit Gokyo ri & chola pass along with EBC & Kala patthar. Since we were going up to EBC we thought it was a good suggestion (later which turned a very bad step/move from us) & we wanted to cover as many place as possible.

 Again discussion was made with Ramesh to get a new quote for EBC with Gokyo Ri & Chola pass. So the final quote was INR 70,000 for 17days. Which was transferred to Mr. Ramesh before we reached Kathmandu. Many tour n travel agencies conduct EBC trek at 800-850$ range. Many people do solo EBC trek without any agency. After EBC experience my conclusion is any trekker having an experience of 2-3 moderate – difficult level Himalayan treks can go solo EBC trek without help of any agency with prior preparation. 

Preparation & things to carry

EBC is one difficult trek where it can cost you very much if you try to hike it un prepared. The total distance covered is around 130+ kms (Lukla to Lukla) so regular brisk walk, jog, exercise or YOGA is a must. I would suggest minimum 60 mins every day for at least 3 months. I did yoga for 3 months & it worked for me. 

When it comes what to carry? I always say get a very good pair of trek shoes. Never compromise in that. A slipper, cotton swab to cover your ear, bandanas, monkey cap, scarf, jacket is must. Rest you can carry clothes which are comfortable for you. I did 13 days trek in 2 jeans & 3 t -shirts only. A good hiking pole, toilet paper roll & candies is essential. If you forget anything then also you can purchase it at either Kathmandu Thamel street or Lukla or Namche (but need to pay a bit higher price). The hiking gears are also available for rent. I rented a down jacket for 100 NPR/day from Kathmandu shop. Always keep 1-2 days buffer in your itinerary because of the uncertain & bad weather, due to which frequent cancellation of flights happen in Lukla.

Routes & stay – food related

The traditional EBC route has many KEY halt points. Common route is

Lukla - Phakding - Namche Bazzar - Tengboche - Dingboche (or Periche) –  Lobuche – Gorakshep - EBC

In-between these halt points there are also other 'N' number of halt points. But the above halt points mentioned has good number of lodges & restaurants. If you can push a little further (till your body allows) & the moment you want to stop, a tea house will be available. There is not hard & fast rule that trekkers should stay in a particular place at a particular day. Just  remember to give a day rest for every 1000 mts height gain. The lodges here are called tea houses offer you to stay at cheaper rates if you buy their (expensive) food.

A tea house menu

 If no food is purchased then you have to pay a very high room rent. Rooms are usually of twin share. The tea houses offer you varieties of bakery items, soups, noodles, porridge, pizza, omelet along with few traditional foods too. The cost for a descent breakfast/lunch/dinner cost from 350-700 NPR. Then a tea/coffee/milk cost from 150-300 NPR. Mineral water is too expensive & Few tea hotels gave cold tap drinking water for free & we used water purifying tablets. Hot water is charged extra. At few higher camps we purchased hot water pots.  A flask having 4 cups of hot water is NPR 400 & 8 cups of hot water is NPR 800. Our team spent almost 16,000 NPR just for this Hot water !!!  The rates of food & water raises as you go to higher camps. We suggest to avoid non veg food as the supply is not regular & it may cause health upset also. The mobile & camera battery may run out & you need to pay 200-500 NPR for the recharge at tea house. Better to carry the Power bank & save battery. You can even get a hot shower through gas geyser at a few tea houses which costs 500 to 600 NPR 

There will be a big dining hall in each tea house which accommodates almost all the tenants staying in that tea house for that day. There will be a chimney at centre of dining hall & the fire wood will be regularly loaded inside. This keeps the whole dining hall warm & cosy. Commonly the main chef will be the wife of that tea house owner. All the trekkers usually dump their luggage in the room & immediately comes to dining hall. They have tea, snacks, dinner & finally leave before they sleep. Most of them listen to music, write dairy (daily updates), read books, play cards, plan their next camp journey, etc. inside the dining hall. We usually get a chance to meet people from whole world inside the dining hall. We met a Gang where in the son aged around 28-32 had come with his mother who was 50+ & she was trying for Everest summit. His son was accompanying her up to EBC. Our whole team had many best moments at each tea house dining hall.

Dining hall of a tea house

The common traditional food we get in Nepal is called as ‘Dal bhat’ which containes rice & dal along with few sides like green leaves, paapad, potato, few pulses, grains & pickle. As we move to higher camps the number of sides becomes less.

The Famous Nepal 'Dal Bhat '

Porters

The porters who carried our luggage are localite of villages near to Lukla. Most of them are of age group 20-30. They are paid 1000-1200 NPR each per day to carry the luggage of trekkers. Commonly a trekker at EBC trail has 2 bags. 1 duffle bag which has his clothes, medicine, slipper & other misc. things & 1 back pack to carry water bottle, camera & other things needed by trekker during trek. The duffle bags are carried by these porters. In one summer season each porter do 3-4 trips to EBC. While trekkers rest & gasp for air during trek, these porters run with heavy luggage to next point to enquire the availabity of rooms to stay for trekkers. After dumping luggage, they used to disappear & reappear next morning. These are most humble people we ever met.

our porters

One of the pity thing during EBC trail is the Yaks & horses which carried heavy luggages throughout the EBC trail. These are the most hard working domestic animals in the world. They used to walk slowly but steadily even in narrow ridge path. 1000s of yaks/horses were seen during the trek. Every animal is tied with the local yak bone bell which used to make ‘ding-ting’ sound & trekkers used to give way for them.

Alcohol, tobacco, internet & network

Alcohol & tobacco is available throughout the EBC in every camp, though it tempts, it’s better to celebrate once you finish EBC & get back to LUKLA only. We purchased a sim in Kathmandu of 'N-CELL' company & it worked for us at many camps (though its signal was not reliable). Many tea houses have Wi-Fi connection & you need to pay 300-600 NPR per hour. Wi-Fi pre-paid card also available for 600 & 2000 NPR.

AMS (Acute mountain sickness) & Health 

Everest base camp is now commercialised & a very popular trek. It easy to attempt but the altitude of EBC & Kala patthar up to 5555 mts has to be taken very seriously because many people get hit with AMS on this route. You get a severe head ache. The only solution to recover is get down to lower altitude immediately or to get helicopter lifted. After Periche the flying of helicopters was very frequent from EBC & Gorkshep, carrying trekkers who got severe hit by AMS to the nearest hospitals. For us there seeing Helicopters in sky was like seeing Autos on road in India. It is advised to drink lots of water, eat healthy food, avoid junks & take proper rest. The most important thing is a day rest after every 1000 mts height gain. After certain camps you won’t feel like eating or drinking water, yet you have to force yourself to eat & drink. 

Never take AMS lightly, many people due to EGO they put their life at risk. Always listen to your body on high altitude. The only proper hospital available at higher camps is at Periche. Some people take dimox tablets, which is a said medicine for AMS. I have never tried one & many say that if you start taking dimox, you need to take it regularly without miss until you are at high altitude area.

Cost involved

Due to jet airways crisis our long booked tickets got canceled & our EBC trek cost got increased.

flight cost 28K, trek charge 70K, other misc. expense was 10-15K. so total it was like 1.10 lakh INR spent during April 2019 for whole EBC trek

But if you plan properly I feel you can complete EBC within 80-85K (during year 2019-2020)

Difficulty level

Though the EBC trail is broad & well marked, it is tuff & demanding. The altitude should not be taken lightly & it’s never recommended for first time trekkers. One should have experienced a minimum for 4000mts height altitude trek before they attempt EBC.

Our Mistakes during trek & few suggestions

Initially we had planned for the EBC, Kalapathar, Gokyo ri & chola pass through travel agency.

The itinerary what agency has sent was not properly checked & reviewed by us. The route had many flaws & then our guide though he is experienced based on few false judgements he restructured our itinerary frequently. As I have said many times earlier, we should mandatorily take a day rest for every 1000 mts height we gain after the trek starts. Our few friends (including me) hurried up from camp to camp ignoring our fellow trekkers suggestion & guide suggestions to slow down & to take rest.  This costed us to skip Gokyo ri & chola pass. Never hurry during trek. Always listen to your body & give enough rest. Take your time, enjoy the view & your 'ME'  moments in between mountains.

If you are Indian trekker carry lots of chutney powder, pickle & instant rasam powder. After few days our body crave for proper Indian food. Rice is available in almost all higher camps. Our fellow trekkers refused to eat anything at many camps & if these things were available at higher camps then it would had saved them from weakness & AMS symptoms faced (due to starving)

Carry loads of energy bar & candies especially ‘Sneakers’. It helps a lot during hiking. A 30 Rupees sneaker bar was charged 300 Rupees at Gorakshep camp. We bought a candy packet having 200 candies for 2000 NPR. Yes a 1 NPR candy was charged 10 NPR at Namche. During trek poping a candy will definitely make you fresh & energized. Energy bar helps you a lot & provides instant energy during steep hiking like Kala patthar.

If you are hiking Kala patthar in morning, then start before 4 am, never stop or halt more than 5 mins until you reach Kala patthar summit to get the best & nearest view of Everest mountain. If you delay to reach the summit sun will raise from back of Everest mountain ruining the proper view of Everest.

Never completely rest or stay at your room on accalmataization day. Have a long walk & climb nearby peaks to get proper accalmataization.

As per our observation the guides mentality in EBC trek towards Indian trekkers are not favourable. Most of them condemn & say Indians are not fit, get tired very fast & they are not ready to push the body after a limit. This is true to some extent also, most of Indians we saw on whole EBC trail was tired & gasping to catch a breath. But on other end the foreign trekkers of all age groups 10-60+ were comfortably hiking. Added to this most of the Indian trekkers prefer helicopter lift from higher camps. We our self saw 2-3 cases. My intension to mention this here is not to degrade the the Indian trekkers but to motive them for well preparation & physically fit for EBC trail in advance.

Finally, I am very glad that EBC trek happened & as per me this is the ultimate scenic Himalayan mountain trail one can trek. All these days we used to trek to reach a single snow covered mountain. But in EBC from day 1 you get to experience all kinds of trails surrounded by 'N' numbers of snow clad mountains. The ultimate thing is you can have smoky Everest view for 7-8 days on stretch during trek. Seems that smoky tip of Everest is permanently stored in my subconscious mind n it keeps reappearing now n then.

I always miss those 15 days, guide, porters, hot water, sleepless nights, gasping moments, base of the world's roof & that serenity - bliss what I got on the EBC trek path.

our EBC trek video clip edited me
https://youtu.be/-2_9koMwF1k

Check for more pics & my FB write up

https://www.facebook.com/rdxsud/media_set?set=a.10216976013407140&type=3

Another EBC video clip edited by my brother H L Prabhakar 

https://youtu.be/RjKHw63cFm8